The history of textile manufacture in Bengal goes back to the remotest antiquity. Long before the birth of Christ, the fame of the textile craft of Bengal had already spread throughout India and abroad. It was reported in Chanakya’s (also known as Kautilya and Vishnugupta) Arthasastra (4 th century BC), in Periplus and in the accounts of Arab, Chinese and Italian travellers. Chanakya mentions of four varieties of textile commodities which were produced in his time: Kshauma – This was a variety of linen, the raw material being common flax, hemp, etc. It was of a coarse variety and was mixed with cotton. The chief seats of manufacture were Pundravardhana (North Bengal) and Benares. Dukala – This was a pure and finer form of linen. It had three varieties: § The first variety produced in Vangaka (Lower Bengal) was white and soft § The second, produced in Pundra (North Bengal) was of dark colour and sparkled like a jewel § The third variety manufa...